New Zealand Surfing Magazine #154
During the process of putting this issue together after interviewing Damon Gunness on the ‘One Man One Wave’ article, it got me thinking as to what drives certain individuals decisions on the chase for the perfect wave and the evolution of themselves as surfers. Human nature lends itself to consistent behaviour and as humans we tend not to take change that well. As surfers this leads to a routine of favourites or what could be termed reliable patterns, ones which we know work for ourselves and which we know we can rely on. To take risk and venture out on a limb is often only sought after by a few. But why? When I speak of this routine I am referring to the way they go about their surfs, the way they prepare, the music they listen to and even the break they choose to surf.
Why do the majority of surfers always head to one certain break becoming regulars, getting to know its very moods, what makes
it tick, perhaps attracted to the camaraderie of the lineup amongst other surfers. Sure they get to know these regular waves better than any others they may have surfed, they may feel as if their surfing is at an all-time level at these breaks, and when they travel they simply can’t work out the different wave and have a less than enjoyable surf, so the next time they revert back to their known. It is a special feeling to know you have something in line in life, something you can control and when you surf the local you have become at one with, each and every session you know what that day will bring well in advance, within reason of course. You know how to get there without thinking about it, who might possibly be there, what time and tide will be best, which waves to take, you put on your favourite song and wax up your board in the same manner that you have done so for soo long because that’s the tonic that you had your best surf on many moons ago so you stuck to it. But does all this lesson your experience and your growth as a surfer? They say ‘variety is the spice of life’, so wouldn’t surfing somewhere different every day, getting to know many different waves, places, people be of interest? Surely by surfing a mixed bag of wave types would help your surfing, rather than the same old. But are we willing to take the risk? Is it that time is so precious that we stick to what we know works not willing to take a gamble? Or is that relationship you have with your local/regular break and being able to ride it to the best of your ability and on the best days it offers up, all that more important. There is no right or wrong, just questions that we can all ask ourselves. Do we buy a new cd and start our session with some new music, change the wax we use or instead of turning right at that major intersection do you turn left and go some- where new? If this editorial makes you wonder, then give it a go. If not keep doing what you do well and enjoy!
Yours in surfing, Cory Scott and the team at NZ Surfing